Gold doesn’t exist anymore. Now it’s game pass core or something…the rate went up with that forced “migration”. You do get access to a few “free” games with core, but you gotta pay way more to have the full deal. I think core (which is the cheapest, baseline option) is $70/yr now? (Edit- i just checked my statement, it’s $78.50)
My super basic faucet handles are exactly that…you twist it left-right to set temp and tilt it up-down for pressure from off to full. We just leave it rotated wherever we like it for temp and tilt up to turn on each time to the desired pressure. Our water pressure is always variable, so the amount tilted up varies, but the “rotational temp” almost never needs changing. There’s no fancy thermostatic valve in these like some shower have. There’s even those fancy kitchen sink faucets that remember everything and you just tap them with your hand and they automatically turn on/off to your settings of temp and pressure. I think they are called “touchless faucets”. Pretty sure even Ikea sells one.
I feel like sink handles like mine are super common, too. I’ve had similar ones in the states and in Europe…
Not to scare you here, but just being real. There’s so many new people in the hobby these days with printer prices getting so low, and so many get easily frustrated so easily and just blame the machine without learning the hobby….
This hobby takes a LOT of patience. Things are going to go wrong, prints are going to fail. You will have to try over and over again with different methods and tweaks. (Not 100% of the time, ofc, but it’ll happen!) While specific printers will have their quirks, most print issues are not printer specific, so any guide to “fixing your prints” will be a good starting point. The most common reply you’ll see to an issue is “user error”- which usually is the case involving any of your settings, filament quality/condition, and/or the condition of your print bed. Keep the bed clean! Dish soap and water is the best thing. A lot of people praise Iso. Alcohol, but that doesn’t always work, and in some cases actually ruins bed surfaces.
Calibrate your filaments and keep them dry. There is no “best settings for X”- they will be a good starting point, some might actually work for you without tweaks, but there is literally thousands of combinations of print material, printers and print environments…so, what works amazing for you might just be a pile of spaghetti for me! Learn the slicer software- they are super powerful now. All the settings can be overwhelming, but you’ll get there in time! Printer mfgs love to brag about print speeds, but fast almost never equals clean. In most cases just slowing down your print speeds can significantly clean things up, or even prevent failure.
If you are pulling .3mf files from any of the sites, be aware that they will have the creator’s full print settings in the file when you load it in the slicer, a lot of which probably wont work for you or might even throw errors in your slicer (bambu labs files are bad about this in non-bambu slicers)- so you’ll need to go through and check everything that changed. Some might be on purpose because of the design (top/bottom layer patterns, fuzzy skin, painted supports, etc)
This hobby is super rewarding and it’s really fun to watch things come to life, but you gotta have the patience to work and grow with a very complex machine!